Improvement in sewing-machines for boots and shoes



3,:She'ets-{Sheet 2.

W. DUDHEMIN.

Sewing-Machines fo r Boots and Shoes.

WITNESSES Patented Jan- 21, 1873.

AM. H1010 -umosRAPH/c ca/vr( msamvs's P900583) UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM DUGHEMI N, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF, AND GEORGE B. BIGELOW, TRUSTEE, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES FOR BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 135,032, dated January 21, 1873.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DucHEMrN, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Sewing-Machines of that class known as lock-stitch machines for sewing the uppers to the soles of turned shoes, of which the following is a specification:

My present invention relates to improvements on my patent of June 8,1869; and also on my application now pending in the Patent Oflice.

Figure 1 is a front view of the machine. Fig. 2 is a side view of the same with sections cut away to show working parts. Fig. 3 is a front view ofthe face-plate. Fig. 4 is a rear view of the face-plate with sections cut away to show working parts. Fig. 5 is the thread-carrier, full size. Fig. firepresents front and side views of the looper- Fig. 7 is a section on the line a: m, Fig. 1, showing the tension-rod or threadcontrolling arm and tension-disk.

Similarletters of reference indicate the same parts in each of the figures.

w is the letter that indicates the frame of the machine; m, the bearings for the working-shaft x; m the bearings for the standard m m is the standard. At its upper end is the arm or, with a workingjoint, m and, at the. extreme lower end, is a stirrup which enables the operator to depress the standard when required. The joint m is so formed that, by the action of the set-screw m in its upper end, the arm or can be made immovable or loose, as may be required to adjust the arm to suit the different edges of the soles to be sewed. This joint is shown in Fig. 1. The other parts of the standard m being shown in my former patent, need not be described in detail here. w is the propelling-shaft, to which are attached the cams a b 0 cl 0 f g. a is the cam that gives the motive power to the wedge a and this cam is secured to the fly-wheel S. a is the cam-rod, operated by the cam a, and connected at its lower end with the crank a on the end of the 7 intermediate shaft to. On this shaft, about midway between the bearings on the support a is secured the clutch a that connects with a recess made for that purpose in the support a On the bar a, between the wedge a and the movable block a", is the spiral spring a", which presses the block hard against the crosspin p in the bar a. On each side of the block a are two projecting pins, between which the jaws of the clutch a pass.

The operation of these parts is as follows, viz: When, by the action of the cam a, the cam-rod a is forced down, the jaws of the clutch a are sent forward, and the wedge a is forced into the slot in the standard m as shown in Fig. 2, where it remains while the stitch is being made, the spiral spring a graduating the pressureto suit the different thicknesses of the sole being sewed; and when, by the action of the cam, the jaws of the clutch are brought back, the movable block a recedes until checked by the cross-pin p in the bar a, and the wedge is withdrawn.

bis the feed-cam, having the projecting piece b (see Fig. 1,) and b is the feed-cam rod. The feed acts the same as described in my application filed December 18, 1871, except that the feed point is lifted by the spring I), as will be hereafter explained. c is the looper-cam; 0 the looper-carriage. This carriage is attached to the plate 3 in such manner that it can move up or down as it is acted on by the pressure of the cam c or the spring 0 and is provided with two projecting pins, 0 and c and spring 0 which terminates midway between said projecting pins. On these pins, and between the spring 0 and carriage 0 is placed the looper 0 in such manner that while it is immovable sidewise its point is free to move out or in, as may be required; while it is always held in position by the pressure of the spring 0 The lower end of this looper is triangular, terminating in a point on the side furthest from the needle. On the side nearest the needle is a groove or recess, 0 for the reception of the, thread forming the loop. (See Fig. 6.) A little above this groove is an inclined plane, 0 just below this plane, set firmly in the projecting plate a, is a stud, 0 also provided with an inclined plane, (see Fig. 3,) over which the plane 0 passes when performing its part in making the stitch. d is the presser-foot cam. 11 is the cam-rod. This rod is provided with a friction-roller at itsupper end, which rests in the irregular groove madein the face of the cam 01 for reciprocatin g it. Its lower end terminates in a socket,

d, in which, surrounded by a spiral spring, is

the connecting-bar 6?, the lower end of which receives the projecting pin d in the presserbar d The presser-bar d is fitted to work in a recess in the face-plate y directlybehind the looper-carrier 0 which serves to keep it in place. a is the needle-cam; e, the needle-cam rod, the lower end of which is connected with the needle-carriage c by a pivot-joint, e. The needlecarriage is provided with a central shaft, 6 which works in bearings made for that purpose in the rear side of the face-plate 3 (See Fig. 4,) and has a circular groove on its face, in which the needle 6 is secured by the segmental plate 0 which is fitted to the carriage with two screws for that purpose. (See Fig. 4.) f is the tension-rod or thread-controller. At its upper end, extending rearward, is an arm. (See Fig. 7.) This arm at its extreme end f is bent at right angles, and is provided with a roll or opening over or through which the thread passes when the machine is at work. The tension-cam f is grooved in its face, but not shown in the drawing, to move f so that it will let out and take in as much thread as the needle requires, making no allowance for the amount used in making the stitch. Just under the lower end of the tension cam-rod f is the stop f This stop is so fitted that it can be moved up or down, as may be required to graduate the tension. If the needle be sent forward an inch and a quarter, the stop f should ordinarily be so adjusted that an inch and a quarter of thread will be delivered by the fall of the tension-rod f which should arrive at its lowest point just before the needle recedes after making its first thrust; thus, as the needle is partially withdrawn, the needle-thread is slackened sufficiently to allow the thread-carrier g to pass between the needle and its thread easily; and the tension-cam is so shaped and timed that it will commence to let out the thread when the feed commences, and draw it in a little after the needle is brought back to its standing-point. If, in sewing, the loop formed by the thread-carrier is not properly and firmly drawn into the work by the needle-thread, the stop f should be raised a little. If drawn in too tightly, or the tension on the needle-thread is so great as to break it, the stop f should be lowered. g is the thread-carrier cam. is the thread-carrier cam-lever. Its upper end is circular, and just large enough to move freely in the irregular groove in the cam g. (See Fig. 1.) The lower end of this lever is fitted to the face-plate y, with a pivot-joint. (See Fig. 3.) g is a rod connecting the thread-carrier arm and cam-lever 9 The arm near its upper end is provided with a stud, g, on the rear end of which is a flange, 9 shown in Fig. 4. This stud is the axis on which the arm works, and is fitted in the slot g made for that purpose at or near the center of the upper edge of the face-plate 3 as shown by the dotted lines in Figs. 3 and 4. In the circular face of the flange g is a small groove in which the end of the spring g rests. The inner end of this spring is set firmly in the back-brace 2; its outer end bent at right angles rests in the groove, as before explained, the function of this spring being to give a yielding pressure to the threadcarrier g". This thread-carrier is peculiar in its construction and operation. Its eye, instead of being on a line with the longitudinal axis of the needle, is placed to out said axis diagonally, thus causing the loop to bulge from the carrier at a point between the top and side, and practically inside of the line traversed by the point of the looper. The carrier above the eye is cut away at g to allow the looper to pass under the thread carried by .the carrier. This arrangement of parts insures that the looper shall pick up the thread with certainty. h is the channel-gage.

This, my invention, operates as follows: By the action of the projecting piece b on the intermediate bar the feed-point b is forced into the sole. The wedge a is then withdrawn and remains so until the feed-point is sent forward the full length of the stitch, when the wedge a? is forced home in the standard m thus griping the sole firmly between the top of the arm at and the channel-gage h. The presser-bar, by the action of the cam 01, is then forced down on the outer edge of the sole, and the feed-point is released from the pressure of the projecting piece I), and, by the action of the spring N, is forced out of the sole and raised to its original position. The needle is then moved forward until the inner end of the eye is a little beyond the working-plane of the thread-carrier g when, by the action of the cam g, the carrier is sent forward, its point passing between the needle and its thread until the depressed portion 9 comes directly under the point of the looper 0 Then the looper is depressed and its point passes under the thread lying over the depressed portion 9 The carrier 9 then recedes, leaving a loop of its thread on the looper c and within the loop of the needle-thread, and the carrier, in its further backward movement, drops the loop previously formed and then on its shank. The

needle, which has been partially withdrawn from the material to slacken its thread, and so held during the foregoing action of the carrier g and looper 0 now goes forward through the sole and draws the previously-formed loop, just dropped by the carrier, tight; it then recedes from the material and'enchains the loop of thread last formed, and then on the looper 0 The looper c is now again forced down until the inclined plane 0 passes over the stud 0 which forces the point of the looper beyond the working-line of the carrier 9 when the carrier is again forced forward, and its point passes through the loop held by the looper 0 then the looper, being released from the pressure of its cam, is forced up by the action of the spring 0 and leaves its loop on the carrier 9", when out thread until the needle has made its first thrust; it then remains stationary until the needle recedes after its final thrust, when it commences drawing the thread until the loop is enchained, when it remains stationary, the needle still receding until the looper 0 deposits its loop on the point of the thread-carrier y", when it again draws in the thread, thus tightening the loop just left on the carrier g. 0n,

the arm 9 is secured the thread-carrier guide 9", its lower end finished in a circularly-inclined plane, the center of the circular stud 9 being its center, and the outside face being the lowest point of the plane. The needle in its thrust forward strikes the inclined lower face of the carrier-guide, and lifts the carrier 9 to the proper position to insure its taking the needleloop correctly.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The looper c constructed and operating substantially as set forth.

2. The thread-carrier 9 in combination with the looper 0 both constructed and opera-ting substantially as set forth.

3. The standard m provided with its hinged upper portion and clamping -screw, or their equivalents, substantially as described.

4. The combination of the wedge a sliding bar a spring a, clutch a and actuating devices with the slotted standard m substantially as set forth.

5. The combination of the thread-carrier g pivoted in a slot in the face-plate, the carrierguide g", and the needle, substantially as set forth.

6. The thread-controller or tension-rod f provided wit-h an angular arm adapted to carry the needle-thread, in combination with its cam f and adjustable stop f substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 16th day of December, A. I). 1872.

Witnesses: WILLM. DUOHEMIN.

J OHN BIGELOW, ALEXR. MAHON. 

